Weaving handloom sarees is a time-intensive and skill-demanding craft that often involves the expertise of multiple artisans working together to create a masterpiece of traditional craftsmanship.
As we celebrate National Handloom Day, here's a step-by-step guide on how handloom sarees are woven:
Selecting Raw Materials:
Choose the appropriate yarns for the warp (lengthwise threads) and weft (crosswise threads) based on the design and desired quality of the saree. Yarns can be silk, cotton, wool, or a blend, depending on the type of saree.
Warping:
The warp yarns are measured and wound onto a large frame known as the warping drum or warping mill. The yarns are evenly spaced and aligned to ensure uniform tension and width across the warp.
Sizing or Dressing:
The warp yarns are coated with a sizing material (starch or other substances) to strengthen them and prevent breakage during weaving.
Drawing-in:
The warp yarns are threaded through the heddles and reed in a predetermined pattern according to the design. Heddles are frames with vertical wires that separate and control the warp threads, allowing for the creation of sheds (openings) through which the weft can be inserted.
Setting up the Loom:
The warp is attached to the loom, which is a frame used to hold the warp under tension during weaving. The reed, a comb-like structure, is positioned to pack down the weft threads.
Weaving:
The weaver uses foot pedals to raise and lower the heddles, creating the shed for the weft insertion. The weft yarn is passed through the shed with a shuttle, creating each row of the fabric. The weaver alternates between raising and lowering the heddles to create different sheds for the weft insertion.
Beating and Tensioning:
After each weft insertion, the weaver uses the reed to firmly pack down the weft threads, creating a compact and even fabric. Proper tension is maintained throughout the weaving process to ensure uniformity.
Repeating the Process:
The weaver repeats the weaving process, row by row, following the design and gradually creating the intricate pattern of the saree.
Adding Borders and Embellishments:
Special attention is given to the borders, which are often woven separately and then attached to the main fabric. Embellishments such as zari (metallic thread), sequins, or embroidery may be added during or after weaving.
Finishing Touches:
Once the weaving is complete, the saree is cut off the loom. The raw edges are finished and any loose threads are trimmed.
Washing and Finishing:
The saree is carefully washed, sometimes using traditional methods to enhance the texture and color. The saree may undergo additional processes such as starching, ironing, or steam-setting to give it its final appearance.
Packaging and Distribution:
The handloom sarees are folded, packaged, and prepared for distribution to retailers or customers.